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Summer-Winter Hookup I have a summer-winter hookup on my oil fired boiler which heats the water. In this day of high oil prices what is the most efficient temperature differential I should set for boiler to turn on to heat the water back up again? I understand that when I turn my thermostat on to heat my house in the winter this temperature differential doesn't matter.
But in the meatime what is the preferred or most efficient setting? Thanks for your help. With an oil burner, and any burner for that matter, the efficiency is greatest when the system experiences long run times. Therefore, in theory a twenty degree delta would be preferable. Realistically most boilers are oversized and this shouldnt be a problem except in severely cold weather. I keep mine at thirty until its gets in to the single digits, which it rarely does around here anymore. For me its no biggie to simply adjust it at will. General Discussion Pro's Forum: Oil Burners Pro's Forum: One is the whole system, the other is a close-up of the valves and such, and the other is of the open panel.
It's a peerless cast iron boiler. Your Aquastat Settings are behind the cover of the grey box saying "Honeywell". One screw loosened allows you to remove the cover and take a peak inside, just to see what the current settings are. The inside of the cover probably has the details on the Aquastat Model Number and a whole lot more. Look for the paperwork on this Unit or download it from Honeywell before going any further.
Your Plumber Friend probably has the literature handy. Buy a 6 Pack and call him over for a on-site consultation. Mid winter is not the time to venture into unfamiliar territory without a good guide. I took the cover off and peeked inside. It is a veritable rats nest of wires but nothing looks out of place. There are two dials.
One for high and one for low. I looked up the info on Honeywells site. They didn't have anything to down load but specs on this unit were as follows: Differential Temperature F High limit: Maximum Safe Operating Pressure psi psi on outside of immersion well, psi on capsule if inserted directly. Is this as easy as turning the "hi" dial to or so?
If so do I need to compensate for a higher low as well because of the operating range definitions? I'm totally guessing here. Thanks for the info! Have you considered an indirect hot water tank? They will recover faster than a direct fired gas water heater. Find all posts by drooplug. I would not get the 'decades of unlimited hot water' thought too burned into your brain cells because decades ago, people were just happy to have warm water on them for 3 minutes.
We are now at the decade of '1 shower head and 2 body sprays and if I could bring in a magazine, I would read that during my hot water massage. I believe you are headed in the right direction and I do agree with drooplug that an indirect could be a good idea. The ability of your boiler to heat water is still very good, just not water in the domestic coil. You could turn up the aquastat to and then when one of your kids opens a faucet, they risk a 3rd degree burn.
So rule that out. There should already be a mixing valve on there with the high limit at But a mixing valve can't make the water hotter, only cooler. And sometime they stick and make the water way too cool so they aren't perfect either. But if you install an indirect water heater, you can have thereserve that would be helpful and let the combustion appliance that you already own do the work. Just use an aquastat that is smart enough to maximize your fuel usage year-round. So an indirect would be a tank that would be heated by the boiler, but be able to store up to 80 gallons of water?
Could it be that easy? I think if that's the case we could be in business. I might even not even wait for something of that possibility. Most indirects are stainless steel tanks with a stainless steel heating coil inside. Usually a 40 gallon indirect is sufficient but you can look over the actual ratings. Be sure to know the net output of your boiler because at the larger sizes, indirects can really suck up the btus.
It would be especially appropriate to install that during the same time that you split the house into zones because the indirect gets treated like another zone off of the boiler and you could kill multiple birds with one stone. This has all been very helpful. I think my plan of action will be to take my new found understanding to my guy and discuss best case scenarios from temporarily increasing the heat for the rest of the winter to adding the zones and indirect tank. As soon as I get my plans together I will re-post with some options I am given, and what I think might be the best way to go.
I don't buy the dirty coil idea unless the demand for hot water is less in the afternoon than the AM. A dirty coil reacts the same at all times. It is not better one time than another unless something else changes such as water pressure, thermostat recovery, flow or system water volume to name a few. I had a job where the guy would run out of hot water in the late evening. I had him put a pressure gage on his system and check at 3 - 4 times a day. The pressure was about 60 psi all day. At about 8 am it would go to psi. What is the differential setting on the control? You are at on the low setting.
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If you want more hot water you want to increase the differential not decrease the differential. Originally Posted by rbeck. It will cut off the burner when the limit is reached. The LOW is the setpoint that the boiler will keep warm hot at. Find all posts by NJT. I'm a little confused Earlier you said that there are TWO dials inside your aquastat? Look again, there should be three If not, please pop the cover off and look at the label inside the cover and tell us what model that is There is a third dial It says DIFF and is set at 15!pofiboutcenist.ml/dnyaneshwari-once-again-dnyaneshwari-in-english.php
Boiler Summer Winter Hookup - HVAC - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
The other settings are 10 20 and I will set it at 20 for now, but does that setting correlate with the either the hi or the low? Meaning, is it OK to keep the hi at and the low at after changing the diff to 20 or even 25? It gets confusing how to explain the working of that, but I think it's easy enough to say that 20 will give a slightly longer run time when hot water is being used, and thus, you might notice slightly more hot water to be used! I would probably turn the down to I would also usually say to turn the down some, but since you are already complaining about hot water, I'm not going to do that A little about water temps, especially in view of the fact that you have children in the home Water that hot will peel skin off in seconds Even if the boiler is not at when you draw the hot water, it will still not be lower than OK, what to do?
But, in the meantime, take a look at your boiler Even though that type of valve ball valve is not recommended for 'throttling' purposes, you CAN try opening that valve just a bit in order to blend some of the cold with the hot before it heads off to the house. This will help in two ways Even though you are going to be mixing some cold with the hot, you MIGHT find that the net result of this is slightly more hot enough water available to the home.
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If you aren't ready just yet to install that indirect, and are considering boiling out the crud in your coil, you will have to cut those pipes anyhow Taco series mixing valve The upside to this is that it will provide safety, extend the output of your coil, AND, when you pipe the indirect, you can re-use this valve at the outlet of the indirect!
I up'd the diff to just past 20 and after a day or two, might even lower the to It helps in the sense that the kids know to turn on the water "in the middle" so as not to have to turn on just the hot and risk injury. I've noticed in the kitchen when turning on just the hot it is ridiculously hot. I spoke to the plumbing friend and our course of action for next weekend is to clean out that coil and install the taco.
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I'll keep you informed of the progress. Thnx everyone for all your help! Find all posts by zoesdad.
I don't see why not ask Here's my take on setbacks: If you have a heating system that recovers slowly from a deep setback period, it's probably better to NOT set back as far. Scorched Hot Air systems recover rather quickly from setbacks, so it's probably OK to go 5 or more degrees. Although you will still probably notice more 'cycling' of the furnace as it reheats the structure and the furnishings. Forced How Water systems take a bit more time to recover, so the setbacks should not be as deep.
If your forced hot water has big ole cast iron radiators, you are probably better off with minimum setback due to the amount of time to recover.
Boiler with summer winter hook up not producing hot water!
Also, systems with large water volumes, and lots of cast iron will tend to cause flue gas condensation for longer periods of time when they are attempting to recover because of the amount of cool return water heading back to the boiler. This stuff is pretty complicated isn't it? The dynamics make your well at least mine head spin. Probably should know this from past discussions on the forum - but I just don't remember.
Whenever you get time could you explain how the bypass works? I guess we can kill some time while we're waiting for rigg's report! Very basically, a bypass does just what it says BOILER bypass goes from the supply to the return of the boiler, on the boiler side of the circulator, and reduces the flow through the boiler. This allows the boiler to come to temperature a bit faster SYSTEM bypass also goes from the return to the supply, but on the system side of the circulator pump. This protects the boiler also by routing some of the HOT supply back to the return The drawback to the SYSTEM bypass is that now the flow in the system is reduced, and there can be uneven heating as a result.
Since adjusting the differential, we' have had some success with adding more domestic hot water. It was super cold the last week abnormally low for our area with it getting into the teens at night and staying below the 20's during the day The only difference is that the temps have gotten surprisingly warmer since I made the adjustment, so there is less demand on the system itself. Generally it has gotten into the 50's during the day, and only down in the 30's at night. So I can't be sure that the adjustment is solely responsible for the amount of domestic hot water.
I'm sure it is, but there is that factor to consider. That being said, I am still planning on adding the indirect tank and zoning the house. The plumbing friend came over and we started looking at and scheming the new master bath and all the changes and additions we will be doing.